Rest Day

Instead of doing my normal ride at lunch today, I brought my little sandwich and glass of milk up into the tree house and sat up there and ate and relaxed and read my Vanity Faire.
It's the first day of spring afterall.
I like working from home on Wednesdays.

Day 2 - BHFTF

Saturday was race day. I was thinking of riding the Fuel EX7 during the day. Dressed in cycling jersey and shorts. But, with race delays (The Super D start was delayed some 1 hour and 20 minutes). The hill climb held right after the end of the Super D.
I had a very good vantage point for shooting the Super D and Hill Climb. Normally, I would post a photo of one of the racers on the course. But today we had a trail pixie near me. Anna, who I met 2 years ago on the Centennial Trail ride.
By the time I got back to Headquarters, it was almost time for the Downhill to start. No time to stop by for some lunch.
As it turned out, the start of the Downhill race was delayed at least an hour. I was too tired from walking and climbing to go up the hill for a jump vantage point. Caught most of the racers as the get near the end of their race.
At 4pm. they were still racing - but I needed to eat before the Film Festival. Off to the motel, change clothes, and headed for the Gas Light. While up on the hill, knowing I would miss lunch, I decided it was a great evening to have a good dinner at the Gas Light (and they are a sponsor of the festival).
For those of you that have not attended BHFTF - you get chances to win swag if you spend money at one of the Festival sponsors. That's the Beer-Muda Triangle raffle.
Saturday ended with the BHFTF Film Fest, featuring amateur films, awards, and swag. (I think mountain bikers thrive on beer, bikes, and swag!) Special film was "Follow Me" - a freeriding film.

In Bloom

So it's mid August, the sun has been shining and the remaining snow has been melting fast. This means that it is the time of year for blooming wildflowers! The subalpine meadows around Mount Rainier are home to many types of wildflowers, most of which are in the midst of flowering and adding beautiful colors to the landscape.
If any of you have been up climbing or hiking I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. The Paradise Meadows have been ablaze with Broadleaf Lupine, Cascade Aster, and Pasqueflower Seedhead just to name a few. Paradise isn't the only place to see fields of red and purple though. The subalpine ecosystem that is home to these flowers surrounds Rainier and is usually found between the 4,500' and 7,000' elevations. This being said climbers are sure to notice hardy plants and flowers growing in the rocky areas of Rainier at all elevations. Look around and you will surely be amazed when you see a hummingbird feeding on a flower as you approach 10,000' on Steamboat Prow or Muir Rocks!
These are some pretty hard core plants that survive year after year while spending eight or nine months buried beneath snow and ice. The best way to keep these guys around for future climbers to see is by not stepping on them, so on your way up to high camp please be sure to set a good example for the rest of the parks visitors (yes they are watching!) by staying on the trails, and not walking all over the fragile meadows.
The photos on this post were taken by Steven Redman one of our Interpretive Rangers here at Paradise. Interps work in the visitor centers throughout the park and are a great resource if you are looking for non-climbing related information. They have the most current beta on everything from flowers and animals to park geology and history. They are always amped to help you out with all the questions climbing rangers can't answer!
One thing climbing rangers can say with authority is that climbing on the mountain is still great. Check out new updates on the Kautz and DC. Don't forget about Little T (with a side trip up K Spire!) along with the Tatoosh peaks as climbing destinations.

Three O' Clock Rock Big Tree One ..

With Adam unemployed, we finally connected on a weekday outing. The original plan was to head up to Static Point, but this late in the season my inclination toward walking long distances diminishes. So we opted to go to Three O' Clock rock with its half hour approach.
Due to roadwork near my house, we got a late start. We finally got to the base of the route around Noon after taking a slight detour to check out the North Buttress side of the rock. It didn't take us too long to find the base of the route, but the beta said "wide crack" and the crack does not start until you are more than ten feet off the ground, so it was not immediately apparent. Since the third pitch was 5.8 and gear, it was decided that I would lead the odd pitches and Adam would lead the even pitches. That also meant that if we opted to, I could lead the fifth unprotected pitch.
There was a seep at the base next to a dirty corner. It was inevitable that one foot or the other would get wet/dirty. I chose the left foot putting it in the dirty corner while keeping my right foot dry on the rock between the corner and seep. There is no gear for the first eight feet or so before gaining the crack which made it a little more interesting than I was looking for. Once in the crack, I moved left to where it steepened. The first few moves on the steeper section was the crux of the pitch. There was a good fist jam, and then the crack widened to an off width that was difficult to jam. I placed a #4 cam and attempted an arm bar move only to slip off. It was barely a fall. I blame it partially on my ability to climb the crack, but also on the still wet/dirty left shoe I had. I eventually did a sort of lie back on the crack keeping my feet on the left side of it to get through the steep section. (one or two moves) The angle eases off after that, and I cruised up to a ledge below a finger crack. I climbed the slab using the crack for hand holds and gear. Once passed that I was at the belay.
Adam at the finger crack
I brought Adam up who complained about the dirt and moisture. I told him it would get better the higher he climbed. Once at the belay he we exchanged the rack and we discussed the next pitch. He headed up and placed a nut behind a flake and then started toward the slab that is the main feature of the second pitch. There are two bolts on it, and it appears quite run out. Adam's head was not into making the committing move onto the slab and continuing up the run out. So he backed off and handed me the lead.
I started up and used the gear he placed and then ran it out to the bolt. It is probably over ten feet to the bolt from that first piece of gear, but the climbing is 5.5 or under. After the bolt, the climbing gets a touch easier with knobs on the slab for feet. I was able to sling a small tree, and get a small cam into an overlap before making a committing move right to reach the second bolt. After the second bolt it is a few friction moves up the slab before gaining a flake roof. Once at the roof the climbing was really fun. I placed a piece just at the roof, and then moved right around it the surmount it. A few more pieces, combined with some friction and stemming allow you to grab a nice hold and haul yourself onto a ledge above the roof. The ledge is a horizontal crack, which I followed to the left to get to the bolted anchor. I used the crack/ledge for feet, but I'm sure it would also work for hands. Although, if I had used it for hands, I would not have been able to protect the traverse, which was about 15' long. (I had used all my big gear coming around the roof.)
Once I got to the belay I started bringing Adam up while contemplating the next pitch. The opening sequence looked hard and I was sweating it. When Adam got to the belay, we re-racked and I got prepped for the next lead. From the topo, we knew the route went up a shallow left facing corner, and would briefly cross over before gaining another shallow left facing corner. It appeared steepest in the first 12' from the belay and then appeared to ease off. So my concern was getting through an overlap about eight feet up. My moves went smoothly and while I was concerned with the climbing I found it relatively easy. But due to my concern, I placed gear often early on. (Adam counted something like seven pieces in the first 20'!) I think that shows that I was mostly comfortable in placing gear and that the climbing was not too difficult. It also shows the head space I was in when leading the pitch. After the initial overlap, the route is somewhat of a lie back or contrapressure routine.
After the first corner peters out is where I found the crux of the pitch and therefore the route. There was a nice stance above a small bush with a small left facing overlap that offered more contrapressure climbing. The move from contrapressure to on top of the slab was a difficult transition. I initially went up to make the move and couldn't figure it out. I down climbed the move or two back to a good stance and surveyed my options. I also wiped the slab where I was going to be putting my feet as it seemed a bit dirty when I initially went for the move. I went back up and made the first move with my right foot on top of the slab. I felt in melting down the hold until it stopped, and I was in a good stance to continue on a few friction moves before regaining hand holds on the other side of the slab and into the next corner. With only one cam left that would fit the crack, I had to be creative, and run it out. This was really no issue as it is usually not too wise to maintain a lie back for long periods while placing gear. I headed up the final corner which was a perfect lie back while slinging a small bush, and placing a cam and nut. At the top of the corner, I slung another bush before moving right onto the slab to the anchor.
Adam about to go into the last stretch of lie back.
Adam came up and said he found it to be quite strenuous. Especially toward the end. For me, that was where I felt I was getting in the groove and was almost sad that it ended.
On the fourth pitch the topo shows three bolts before reaching the belay. I could see one bolt about 25' straight up, but there was a line of two bolts heading rightward. Adam agreed to lead this one which put him out of his comfort zone. He quickly got to the second bolt, but instead of heading to the other bolt in sight, (Which neither of us, especially me, thought was on route,) he headed to a depression and climbed straight up about 20' above the last protection. He found a decent set of bolts with old rap slings on it. He set up a belay, and I followed. Shortly after the second bolt I noticed the real top anchor and headed toward it. This is when we realized that the other bolt we could see was on route and about halfway between the second bolt Adam clipped and the chains. I got to the true anchor and belayed Adam over. We looked at the fifth unprotected pitch ending at a tree and decided it was not worth it. From the chains we made three raps to the base. There was no issues rapping and we were back to our packs in no time. We relaxed a bit and checked out more of the crag before hiking out to the car.
Adam heading into the unknown.
This was a great outing. I don't know if it is because I hadn't climbed in three weeks, but I found the climbing really enjoyable. The guidebooks have this route as two stars, but I would say it is perhaps a three star route. While not particularly difficult the climbing on the first and second pitches is interesting and fun. (While surmounting the roof on the second pitch, I couldn't stop yelling down to Adam how much fun it was!) The third pitch was really nice too and for a brief while mimicked Diedre in Squamish. (Although it was facing the opposite way.) This was a nice outing, and one that can easily be combined with some other shorter routes at Three O' Clock Rock. While the air temps were warm (60°s) we were in the shade from the second pitch up, and subsequently wore poofys the rest of the route.

Cool canoeing

My son (reclining) and a friend canoeing on Loch Tay at the end of August. The loch seems to be going downhill. I think this is because the photographer (my husband) was juggling a canoe and camera.
And when the sun comes out in Scotland, no matter where you are, you have to bask.

Summer

Weather patterns around the mountain have settled down. High pressure has been sitting in the area since Independence Day. Skiers, climbers, and ravens soaking up the rays at high camps are rewarded with unencumbered views of the Cascade Range.

Routes around the mountain all seem to be in 'typical' shape for this time of year. Check specific route conditions using the links to the right. July brings quick changes to conditions on the upper mountain. Be sure to ask rangers about the most recent updates while checking in for your adventure.

On another note, we'd like to give a special shout out to our extended climbing community for all your gracious assistance, positive vibes, food, gifts, and thoughts. We appreciate all your help and look forward to seeing ya'll back up on the mountain soon.

The DAY is at Hand

This is what was on my blog when I took a peek at it this morning. Yes; the day has arrived! By 3:00p today, I will be officially retired ... or, since I am below the official retirement age, I willat least be out of the workforce.



Mui's official last day with DHS is not until the end of December, buthe turned in his badge and keys yesterdayand is on what is calledterminal leave ... they could have a better description ofhis status, butwhat matters is that he's out of the daily work routine and doesn't have to go back into the office to complete the formalities. That's a good thing since we will be flying the coop and heading south on Tuesday, 4 December.

Tonight we will have the first of the many sleeps of our fulltiming gypsy lifestyle in our rolling condo.

Update:

Had to come back and post a link to the retirement tribute my friend MBZ put up for us on her blog.

Reminder - Black Hill Fat Tire Festival

Three weeks to the Black Hill Fat Tire Festival. Last year I attended - the first year for the festival and the first festival I had attended.
Those that came last year - there are some new trails, rides, and functions. The big one for me is the Mickelson Trail Ride Friday and Saturday. The Mickelson is an old railroad bed and runs for 109 miles.
For you singletrack racers, there are races galore - downhill, xc, hill climb and more.
Singletrack tours are held a couple of times a day (you need to sign up before the ride). Tour rides are "no one left behind" and lead by members of BHMBA (Black Hills Mountain Bike Association).
Another addition for this year's festival is a film festival. There will also be a showing of Season the new film from The Collective.
You need to take part in Beer-muda Triangle. You earn raffle tickets for attending functions and making purchases at sponsors (stuff you will need anyway - like gas, food, and souvenirs).
I had a great time last (even if the trails were over my ability). I have been told that they have new trails, including an easier trail. This will be a great way to checkout my new bike!
Good trails, good friends, good food, good scenery - a great festival. Check out my photos from last year's Festival.
While you are in the area, check out Mt Rushmore, Badlands, Needles Highway (Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway), and Custer State Park.
Hope you can attend - looking forward to meet you there...

Green Bay

It took me 2 days to drive from Little Rock to Green Bay. Stopped overnight in Bloomington, IL. Was thinking of riding there. But, was late when I got to the motel, not sure how to get to the trailhead, and still had a good drive the next day.
Yesterday the weather was not conducive to riding. Today was a little cool (28-30 deg), but mostly sunny, light wind, and I needed to ride.
Headed South on the Fox River State Trail from downtown Green Bay, past downtown DePere. When the trail surface changed from asphalt to crushed stone, it was time to turn back.
Anyway, I knew my feet would be getting cold. Time to be back. Got in my 15+ mile ride.

Frozen Yoghund and Pupcakes

We've been planning to have my third birthday party for a while at the park this evening, although it's difficult to post in view of all the sadness in DWB land. But ma didn't want to disappoint me, so I want to share some of the preparations. (Even though the vet arbitrarily assigned July 1 as my official barkday, mom can't help me on Wednesday, so we are having it tonight - yay!) I can't wait.This is the doggie pupcake mix, frosting and sprinkles. Mom mixed it up and I helped by licking the bowl.
Mmmm - looks and scents yumzers. (smells sort of like bran muffins.) Next job?
Doggie frozen yoghurt in my fave flavor - peanut butter and banana - deeeeeslish!
We put treat sized portions into plastic "slider" cups and voila - enough for lots of doggies!
Oh pleeeeaase give me a lick Ma!
Okay, pupcakes cooled, so now we can frost them - they look and smell so good - don't know if I can wait til 5!
This is how I helped with the frosting! Mmmmm slurp lick!
Hope all the doggies enjoy sharing pupcake and frozen yoghund with me tonight!

Kanesville Krusher Photos

My photos of Kanesville Krusher are posted. The photos are divided into 3 groups - Kids Race & Misc, Category 3, and Category 1 & 2.
Here's the link for my race photos: http://win-photo.photoreflect.com